Chemist Confessions

#97: How Does Gluconolactone Compare to AHAs?

Taking a break from plant stuff and antioxidants, let’s talk about the newer exfoliator on the block, gluconolactone. Uniquely, gluconolactone has been tied to many skin benefits, being called hydrating, brightening, exfoliating, to maybe even…acne fighting? Ultimately we dissect the data to discuss what exactly gluconolactone does for skin and how it compares to the classic AHAs. Tune in to learn if gluconolactone deserves a place in your routine and how to best shop for this category!

#96: What Actives Can You Layer With Vitamin C?

In this episode, we’re continuing our Vitamin C series and are focusing on actives layering. Most of the questions we get are on whether or not you can layer certain actives with the very fussy ascorbic acid. We first review guidelines on the concept of layering, go through any evidence on ascorbic acid layering combinations, and finally discuss which pairings you should and shouldn’t worry about.

#95: How Good is Vitamin C For Hyperpigmentation Really?

We’ve dedicated many episodes to Vitamin C, but there’s still more to cover! Recently, there have been a lot of Vitamin C launches and they are specifically for tackling hyperpigmentation. What makes this arena slightly confusing is that many of these products use Vitamin C derivatives. But, how helpful is Vitamin C in helping to tackle this very stubborn skin concern? And which Vitamin C molecule is best? We discuss all this and more. It’s time to go down the rabbit hole again!

#94: Is Resveratrol Better Than Vitamin C?

We’ve encountered many skincare users who have discovered that the Vitamin C realm is just not their cup of tea and neither is it for their skin. Enter resveratrol! We discuss what resveratrol is, its antioxidant capabilities, and why despite the amount of data, we consider this a solid option as a non-Vitamin C antioxidant replacement. You’ve been warned, we get nerdy here, but lets go down the rabbit hole shall we?

#93: What Benefits Does Kojic Acid Have For Skin?

There’s a lot of rice-based ingredients and rice-adjacent ingredients in skincare. They can span from functional ingredients such as waxes and thickeners to exotic actives like the very famous Pitera. Amongst all of these ingredients, there’s one isolated active compound that we believe deserves some attention and that is kojic acid. This ingredient is a byproduct of the sake fermentation process and happens to have some solid data as a hyperpigmentation-fighting active. So let’s dive in!

#92: What Does Centella Asiatica Actually Do For Skin?

Centella Asiatica (aka cica) has continued to reign as a trendy plant-based active. For good reason! With origins as a wound healing ingredient, the research behind centella asiatica as a skincare ingredient has really grown. We go through the research update and talk about its benefits as a skin soother and possible anti-aging ingredient. Finally, we walk through how to shop for centella asiatica and ultimately how to hunt for the good stuff: madecassoside & asiaticoside.

#91: If There's Glycolic & Lactic Acid, Why Should We Use Mandelic Acid?

In the world of AHAs, mandelic acid feels like that forgotten child. We always talk about the golden child, glycolic acid, as well as the more gentle exfoliator, lactic acid. So when would a person need mandelic acid in their life? We go through the data and discuss who it’s good for, how much you should be using, and how to shop for this unique AHA.

#90: Why is Ginseng in Skincare?

Ginseng is definitely one of those alluring, almost magical ingredients that not only gets touted as a cure-all but almost as a skin cure-all as well. This root has been linked to a wide array of skincare benefits such as being an antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and anti-aging. But is there any merit to these claims? We discuss the science and just how helpful ginseng can be to your skincare routine.

#89: Can You Have Too Much Niacinamide?

Niacinamide is EVERYWHERE in the skincare world, but for good reasons. It’s a jack-of-all-trades type of molecule that has actual clinical evidence that ranges from improving skin barrier function, reducing sebum production, to brightening hyperpigmentation. But in recent years products now have way more niacinamide than ever before. So let's review some of niacinamide’s most famous clinical tests and answer the question “is there such thing as too much niacinamide?”

#88: Can Urea Replace Your AHAs?

Urea has surprisingly been creeping up the ranks in skincare ingredient awareness. This oldie but a goodie has actually been looked at for some time and been compared to some of the greats like glycerin. Uniquely, urea at lower percentages serves as a hydration ingredient but at higher concentrations acts as a keratolytic similar to AHAs. So you have to wonder, can urea replace our AHAs?